Sonntag, 17. Juni 2012

Tomatentipps von Kyle aus Neuseeland

Ein Freund, der in Wellington Neuseeland lebt, hat dort einen Freund, der auch Tomaten zieht und mir seine "speziellen" Tipps hat zukommen lassen.

Tomate New Zeald Pink Pear
Tomate "New Zealand Pink Pear" hochgeladen von Karen Cunningham
Kyle wrote:
Here are some tips from the top of my head, probably the most useful ones for us.

Probably the best tip I've come across recently is one to prevent "blossom-end rot" in developing fruit.  This is caused by a lack of calcium in the tomato, which results in the cell walls in the bottom of the fruit breaking and fungal infection setting in.  The lack of calcium is ususally caused by infrequent or irregular watering.  When planting the tomatoes put a tablespoon of milk powder into the bottom of the planting hole beneath each plant, and work into the soil.  The extra calcium provided by the milk power prevents blossom end rot.

Compost, compost, compost!!  Homemade compost seems to fix about everything, as does well rotted animal manure (horse, sheep etc), and if your plants are healthy they can resist disease fair more effectively.  Just ensure that you don't compost old or diseased tomato plants, that way avoiding passing diseases onto the next season's plants.  Burn them instead.  Wood ash is also beneficial, adding extra potassium to the soil.

Don't rush to plant your tomatoes too early in the season.  If they get hit by cold weather their growth for the rest of the season will be comprimised.  Wait until the soil is nice and warm...usually late October-November here in Wellington, earlier further north....add six-months for Germany!  When you plant them put in a stake at the same time to avoid damaging their roots later in the season.

I feed my plants weekly with a commercially-made liquid blood-and-bone fertiliser.  It also has extra magnesium added, which is really important for tomatoes and egg plants.

I always pinch out the lateral branches/shoots; these are the ones between the main stem and the perpendicular branches.  Laterals, if left to grow, take nutirents that would otherwise feed your growing fruit.  If your plants are grafted onto root stock you don't have to worry about pinching out the laterals, as the root stock will be able to feed the additional foliage.

As the plants grow, remove lower leaves to increase airflow around the plant.  This helps prevent blight, a fungal infection, from attacking the plants.  However, don't remove too many leaves from around fruit as excessive exposure to NZ sun can cause sunscald of the developing fruit.

Don't water the foliage of the plants, always water around the roots.  Wet foliage encourages blight to develop, and the splashing of water on the leaves can also spread spores of the blight fungus.

Liquid fertilisers, such as those made yourself from soaking washed seaweed in rainwater for a couple of months, are excellent for tomatoes and almost every other vegetable in the garden.  Seaweed contains many micronutrients often lacking in soils, especially NZ ones.

Rotate your planting area, trying to make sure that you don't grow tomatoes, or other members of the solanacae familty (e.g., potatoes, egg plants), in the same place more than 1 year in three.  This helps minimise plant disease.


O.K., Seegras oder Seetang ist hier um Göttingen wohl nicht aufzutreiben, da wird wohl weiterhin die Brennessel- und Beinwelljauche ausreichen müssen. Aber der Tipp mit dem Milchpulver gegen die Blütenendfäule klingt zwar befremdlich, aber ich werde es im nächsten Jahr mal ausprobieren (ich hatte zwar erst an einer Pflanze dieses Problem im letzten Jahr).

Hat jemand schon Erfahrungen damit gemacht?


Rügener Inselseifen News hat gesagt…

Hm, ich kenn das auch mit dem brennesselguß, algen kann ich dir hier sammeln... liebe grüße von der ostsee-die anke

Kathrin hat gesagt…

Vielen Dank für die guten Tipps bezüglich der Tomaten, alles wird hier wohl nicht umsetzbar sein, allein schon vom Klima her gibt es große Differenzen :)

lg kathrin